Section 8: Safety Considerations
8.1 Lead Climbing Safety
- Belayers: Trained, IFSC-certified belayers provided by the organizer. Belayers use assisted-braking belay devices (e.g., GriGri) and follow standardized belaying protocols to ensure safe catch during falls.
- Rope inspection: All ropes are inspected before each competition session. Ropes are retired after a set number of sessions or after any significant fall.
- Quickdraw placement: Route setters ensure quickdraws are placed at appropriate intervals so that fall distances are within safe limits. The first quickdraw must be low enough that a fall before clipping it does not result in a ground fall.
- Fall zone: The area beneath the climbing wall must be clear of obstacles, equipment, and personnel. Only the belayer and the judge are permitted in the immediate fall zone.
8.2 Bouldering Safety
- Crash mats: High-density foam mats covering the entire landing zone. Minimum thickness 40 cm (15.7 in). Mats must extend at least 2 m beyond the climbing area in all directions. No gaps between mats.
- Wall height: Maximum 4.5 m to ensure falls are within a manageable height for matted landings
- Spotters: In World Cup competition, designated spotters may be positioned near the wall during early problems to guide falling athletes away from mat edges. In finals, athletes typically self-spot with mat positioning.
- Problem design: Route setters must ensure that the trajectory of a fall from any point on the problem lands the climber on the crash mats. Problems that would result in falls toward the audience, off the edge of the mat, or into wall features are redesigned.
8.3 Speed Climbing Safety
- Auto-belay: Mechanical auto-belay devices are inspected and certified before each competition. Backup safety lines may be used during testing. The auto-belay must lower the climber at a controlled speed (maximum 2 m/s descent rate).
- Start pad: Positioned at a height that allows the athlete to reach the first holds without jumping, minimizing the risk of foot slippage at the start
- Wall surface: Inspected for loose holds, spinning t-nuts, or damaged panels before each session. The standardized route holds are replaced on a regular schedule to maintain consistency.
- Partition: A physical barrier between the two speed lanes prevents athletes from interfering with each other and protects against debris from the adjacent lane.
8.4 Hold and Wall Safety
- Hold inspection: All holds are inspected for spinning (loose t-nuts), cracks, sharp edges, or damage before each competition session. Damaged holds are replaced immediately.
- Wall panels: Structural integrity of wall panels and support framework is inspected before each event. Load testing may be required for temporary or modular walls.
- Volume attachment: Large volumes (geometric features bolted to the wall) must be secured with multiple bolts and tested for rotational stability under load.
- Brushing: Holds are cleaned (brushed with nylon or boar-hair brushes) between rounds to remove excess chalk buildup that could affect grip quality. Route setters determine which holds are brushed.
8.5 Medical and Environmental
- Medical team on-site with capability to treat common climbing injuries: finger pulley injuries, skin tears, minor falls
- Ambulance on standby for serious injuries (rare but possible: ankle sprains from bouldering falls, head impacts)
- For outdoor events: UV protection, hydration stations, and heat management protocols
- Athletes may tape fingers and use hand cream between attempts but may not apply tape during a climbing attempt