Section 5: Rules of Play
5.1 Speed Climbing
- Qualification: Each athlete climbs the standardized route twice (2 attempts). The best time is their qualification result. The fastest 16 athletes advance to the head-to-head bracket.
- Bracket: Seeded bracket (1 vs 16, 2 vs 15, etc.). Best of 1 race per matchup in early rounds; best of 1 in all rounds. Winner advances, loser is eliminated. Continues through quarterfinals, semifinals, and the gold-medal race.
- Start procedure: Both athletes set up on start pads. An electronic start sequence provides "Ready" (hands on designated holds, feet on pad), a random pause (1–3 seconds), then the start tone. The athlete's time begins when their hand leaves the start pad.
- False start: If an athlete leaves the start pad before the tone, it is a false start. Under current IFSC rules, one false start per lane per race is permitted. The second false start by the same athlete = loss of that race.
- World records: Men's world record is approximately 4.79 seconds. Women's world record is approximately 6.24 seconds (records continue to fall as the discipline evolves).
5.2 Lead Climbing
- Time limit: 6 minutes from the start signal. A warning buzzer sounds at 5 minutes.
- One attempt only: Athletes get a single attempt on the route. Once they fall or their time expires, their attempt is over.
- Starting: Athletes start with both hands on designated start holds and both feet on start footholds or the ground. The clock starts on the official signal.
- Clipping: Athletes must clip the rope into each quickdraw in sequence as they ascend. Climbing significantly above a quickdraw without clipping it may result in the judge stopping the attempt for safety reasons.
- Scoring: Judged by the highest hold reached. Each hold on the route is assigned a sequential number. If the climber controls the hold (both hands have been on it and it is being used for upward progress), they are credited with that hold number. A "+" is added if the climber made a controlled movement toward the next hold but did not reach it.
- TOP: If the climber reaches and controls the final hold (top of the route), they score "TOP" — the maximum possible result.
5.3 Bouldering
- Problems per round: 4 problems in the final (5 in qualification at World Cup events). Each problem is a separate challenge with its own start, zone, and top.
- Time limit: 4 minutes per problem in World Cup events; 5 minutes per problem at the Olympics. A countdown clock is visible to the athlete.
- Start position: Both hands on designated start holds, both feet off the ground. The judge confirms the start position is correct before the clock begins.
- Zone hold: An intermediate hold partway up the problem. Reaching the zone hold (controlling it with at least one hand) is scored and counts toward the ranking. The zone rewards athletes who make progress even if they don't complete the problem.
- Top hold: The final hold at the top of the problem. The athlete must control the top hold with both hands in a stable position for the judge to confirm "TOP."
- Attempts: Athletes may make as many attempts as they want within the time limit. Each attempt (starting from the ground and falling or stepping off) is counted. Fewer attempts = better ranking when tops/zones are equal.
- Reading time: Athletes observe each problem from a designated viewing area during the observation period. No touching the wall or holds during observation.
5.4 Boulder & Lead Combined (Paris 2024+ Format)
- Two-discipline event: Athletes compete in both bouldering and lead climbing rounds
- Scoring: Points-based system. Each athlete receives points based on their ranking in each discipline (bouldering and lead). Points from both disciplines are summed for a combined ranking.
- Qualification: All athletes compete in bouldering qualification and lead qualification. Top athletes advance to the final round.
- Final: Bouldering final followed by lead final. Combined points determine the medal rankings.
- Advantage over Tokyo format: The multiplication scoring used in Tokyo was replaced because it disproportionately punished a single bad result. The additive points system is considered more equitable.